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Project Log:  Friday, June 5, 2015

One of the final details not yet dealt with was new sailcovers for both main and mizzen.  To this end, Jason, my upholstery and canvas contractor, and I agreed to meet in the morning and mock up the booms and sails so he could pattern the sailcovers and have them ready in time for launching.

With the masts already set up on sawhorses, it was pretty straightforward to attach the booms--one mast at a time--and bend on the sails in a rough approximation of their eventual stored state, from which Jason could get the basic measurements and pattern information he needed.


Afterwards, with the main boom still in place, I did one final preparatory step for the new lazy jacks, approximating the positions for two legs to the boom and cutting oversized lengths of line to run to the main control lines above.  I left these lines long and awaited mast stepping and having the sail in place before attempting to finalize the boom locations for the legs.  It looked like two legs would be enough, but it'd be simple enough to split one (or both) into a pair if needed.  The main point of this exercise was to locate and install the block at the end of the upper control line, which location I determined by the whim of my eye and the necessity to have the whole system be retractable when not in use.


Back on windlass duty a little later on, I started on the foredeck, where I overbored all the mounting hole locations for the windlass and chain stripper with large bits to remove coring from these areas and prepare the holes for epoxy filling.  I also drilled the large hole for the chain through the deck.


Afterwards, I filled the holes with a thickened epoxy mixture, and sealed the exposed core edges in the larger hole.


After lugging the windlass on deck the other day--being all bronze, that thing is inordinately heavy--I'd left it in place for a time.  To my disappointment, I later discovered some of the windlass oil running down the deck, suggesting that the gasket material I'd applied when I installed the motor hadn't "taken" properly.  This left me no alternative but to remove the windlass back to the bench and reseal the motor.  Apparently, I'd not allowed the liquid material the required few minutes of air-cure time before assembling the parts before, so I made sure to do so now.  After assembly, I left the windlass tipped on end so that the oil in the reservoir would stay clear of the flange area to give the liquid gasket plenty of time to cure and make itself right this time.


At the helm, I chose a location for a remote switch for the windlass, and cut an opening for the switch body.  During the cable run for the windlass, I'd led a two-conductor cable (red and yellow) from the chainlocker for this purpose (the other end would connect to the appropriate terminals on the windlass solenoid up in the chainlocker, which I'd install next).  While both wires of this cable were positive in function, I chose to overlook the cable color problem, but marked the switch and cable clearly as to the wires' functions.   The third terminal on the switch was a ground wire, which I led in to the console and to one of the negative distribution busses.


With the switch wiring complete, I installed the panel in the console, bundling and securing the wires as much as possible but leaving enough excess to easily remove the switch for servicing.


I was still awaiting the main breaker panel for the windlass, which incorporated a 150-amp breaker, so I couldn't complete the positive cable runs till that arrived.  However, I could--and did--make up the negative main cable end, securing it to the negative distribution buss.  It's the large black cable on the lowest stud.

Moving my wiring operation to the chainlocker, I began by choosing a mounting location for the solenoid unit.  Eventually, I decided the underside of the deck was best for many reasons, chief among them ease of access and protection from damage.  I made sure to mount it well clear of the bolt holes and backing plate for the windlass installation (marked roughly in black marker).  Before mounting, I'd marked various terminals on the solenoid (as determined by the wiring diagram) for ease of reference during wiring and later.

The main positive and negative cables were already led into the space, along with the two-conductor wire leading to that helm switch.  In addition, I'd pre-wired the two foot switches in the foredeck when I installed them some time earlier.  Now, I made up the ends of these wires and connected them as required:  positive leads from the two foot switches and helm switch to the up and down terminals on the solenoid, respectively; positive main cable to one of the large studs on the solenoid; and the negative leads from the two foot switches, plus the main negative cable, which for the moment I left dangling as these would eventually be grounded to one of the windlass mounting bolts when it was installed.

In addition, I also made up two shorter 1/0 cables that would lead from the up and down sides of the solenoid (at the forward [upper] side of the unit) to the studs on the windlass motor on deck, but I left these hanging in the space pending final installation a little later on.


This wrapped up everything I could do until [a] I installed the windlass unit on deck (awaiting only new bronze bolts and final hole and surface preparation) or [b] I received the necessary breaker for the console end of the system.

Total Time Today:  6.75 Hours

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