[ Home Page ]    [ History ]    [ The Project ]

Project Log:  Saturday, February 25, 2012

With various pieces and parts now on hand, I assembled the section of the fuel system between the supply manifold and the filters, incorporating a regular hand bulb for manual filling of the fuel filters if needed.

I chose to locate the primer bulb on a separate leg, offset by three-way valves, so that it wouldn't be a factor in the regular fuel system in case the bulb failed; this required more fittings, but I preferred to keep the bulb isolated, so the tradeoff was worthwhile.  For regular operation, fuel would run through the top section, unhindered; should manual priming be necessary, all I'd have to do was swing the two valves to direct the flow through the bulb and on to the filters.  Each valve handle featured a point on the end, which pointed to the direction of flow. 

Regular operation
(Valve handle points up)

Primer Bulb Operation
(Valve handle points down)

At the aft end of the panel, I installed my new bronze raw water strainer.  Because of potential interference with the various fuel lines, which problem I discussed earlier, I chose to mount the strainer on 1" long standoffs, which elevated the strainer above the fuel lines and gave me more options in placement and operation. 

Even so, the routes of the fuel lines dictated the placement of the strainer.  Before beginning, I used a scrap of fuel hose (I'd used up most of the short pieces earlier in building the fuel primer bulb system) to mark out the routes of the three fuel return hoses that would potentially interfere with the strainer's location.

In addition to convenient use and placement of the strainer, I had to account for operation of the fuel system valve handles once the hoses leading to the strainer were in place, so in the end a location at the upper aft corner of the panel worked out best.

After marking the location, ensuring that the fuel hose runs were clear of the strainer mounts, I secured the standoffs to the panel from behind with machine screws, and installed the strainer to the other side of the female standoffs with additional screws.  The height may appear as if it would be wobbly or tenuous, but the standoffs were very strong and there was no tendency to sag, wobble, or compress the plywood. 


In fact, once the plywood panel was reinstalled in the engine room, I found that even applying weight to the strainer only caused the panel itself to flex slightly between its mounting bolts, but there was no movement beneath the standoffs.  I'd been prepared to add fender washers between the standoffs and panel if needed, but this did not seem necessary.

Although I was not yet ready to permanently install an engine exhaust system, I needed proof of concept so I'd know how and where I'd eventually lead the hose.  To that end, I purchased a cylindrical, inline waterlift muffler (Vernalift), which during earlier planning had seemed an attractive option for the tight space, particularly since it allowed me the most height between the engine exhaust elbow and the waterlift inlet port.  Ideally, I wanted 12" or more vertical space, and this unit allowed that where no other shape would.

With a couple short pieces of 2" corrugated exhaust hose, I mocked up the muffler to see where it might naturally end up.  For some reason I'd originally been planning to run the exhaust hose down the port side of the boat, but soon it became clear that the starboard side offered a more advantageous hose run.  I'd have to come up with a way to secure the muffler in place, which wouldn't be too difficult, and the mockup showed a need for various chafe gear to protect the hose in the proposed locations, but overall it looked pretty good, so I knew I could proceed with other engine room work knowing the exhaust system had a home.  Final installation would come some time in the future, whenever it made sense.


One installation I wanted to complete before contemplating the exhaust was the propeller shaft, so I ran a tape measure up through the stern tube and secured it with tape to the center of the transmission hub, then noted the measurement at the outboard end of the shaft log:  53-1/8".


To this measurement, I'd need to add length as needed to incorporate the propeller and shaft taper, plus clearance distance between the bearing and prop hub.  Also, I added 3/8" immediately to allow for the protrusion of a new Cutless bearing, which I installed next as an afterthought, beyond the end of the tube.  Shaft diameter would be 1-1/4".


Earlier, a reader asked where I planned to put my compass, something I'd had in mind but had never included in any of my helm and pilothouse mockups.  I'd been saving a nice bronze binnacle and 6" compass that I'd had for years, and planned/hoped to install it on the centerline in the pilothouse, directly aft and beneath the center window. 

Although not directly in front of the helm per se, this location was easy to see, and with only half a step sideways the helmsman could be directly behind the card as needed; also, the location did not interfere with any other installations, and would be far enough removed to avoid undue electrical interference in the helm area, at least to the point that it could be properly compensated for.  However, the binnacle did hang slightly over the companionway; I thought I could deal with that appropriately during the finish and trim stages of construction.  In any event, this was my current thinking, lest anyone think I'd not considered this still-critical piece of navigation equipment.


One odd and end that I thought I should take care of was the short continuation of some 2" PVC conduit I'd run in the galley earlier.  I'd located this conduit behind the stove to allow for wire and hose runs as needed, and wanted to extend it forward to the hanging locker.  This was simple and straightforward, and probably the only reason I'd not done it sooner was that I'd not had PVC cement on hand.  I added a tee beneath the galley sink cabinet in case I needed/wanted to lead a hose or wire into that space, but mainly I expected the conduit to be used to lead between the forward and after parts of the boat through the galley.  At the forward end, I installed a coupling to allow for future extension.


Also in the "miscellany" department, I sanded the first layer of fill on the old depthsounder patch, revealing just a couple small low spots to fill and smooth.  Meanwhile, I installed some tabbing around the bases of the mizzen mast A-frame support, which would help hold the legs in place as needed.


Total Time Today:  8.25 hours

< Previous | Next >

The Motorsailer Project
Site design and content ©2010-2015 by Timothy C. Lackey.  All rights reserved.

Please notify me of broken or missing links or other site issues.
You can always find every day's project log links on The Project page.

Questions and comments | Home Page
V1.0 went live on 8/26/10