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Project Log:  Monday, February 20, 2012

Now that my new fiberglass backing plate for the Webasto fuel supply components was ready, I dry-fit the panel and determined where the fuel pump should be located. 

The instructions for the pump called for it to discharge at an upward angle.  The fuel line, as supplied, was 3/16" copper, which I'd use between the tank and the filter assembly, but the various components needed to be interconnected with short bits of hose, also supplied.  Because I could mount the fuel pump so close to the boiler itself, I used a short piece of the hose to connect it directly, and held the pump low enough so the hose angled upwards.

With the general placement on the backing panel determined, I removed everything to the bench and secured the pump in a supplied rubber mount in the appropriate location.  Because of the height of the rubber mount, I secured the fuel filter to a stainless steel standoff with a rubber-lined clamp, keeping the remainder of the fuel system in line with the filter


Temporarily installing the panel, I found that attaching the fuel line to the boiler caused the fuel pump's mounting ring--which was secured with only one screw by design--to twist, affecting the alignment I'd planned.  I also noticed that the forward end of the panel above the fuel pump would affect the installation of the boiler's air intake line, so I took everything apart, cut off the offending corner of the panel (which served no purpose anyway), and added another clamp to the fuel pump, also secured to a standoff.




I'd wait to install the fuel line between the tank and the filter till later in the project. 

Next, I turned to the main fuel system manifolds.  Despite what seemed an abundant space on the starboard engine room panel, it was still a bit of a trick to figure out the best way to handle the fuel distribution.  With three tanks, and both supply and return manifolds, there'd end up being many hoses running around, and I wanted the layout to be logical and attractive.

I'd assembled the manifolds some time ago, but had left certain components off pending the final layout of the system.  After considering various options, I ended up installing the supply manifold just aft of the filters, with the outlet facing down and three inlets facing aft to accept the fuel hoses from the tanks.  With some short pieces of fuel hose for layout purposes only, as I wasn't yet ready to run the actual fuel lines,  I determined the hose runs from the manifold, running all three hoses down towards the bottom to maintain as much panel space as possible.


At the manifold outlet, I installed a 90° fitting to run the fuel line to the nearby filters.  However, I wanted to install a manual priming bulb to help fill the filters after maintenance, and wanted the bulb to be isolated from the regular fuel run by shutoff valves, so eventually I figured out what plumbing parts I needed to effect this and ordered them to later use.  I'd complete that part of the installation once the parts arrived.

While I still had the temporary hoses in place for the supply, I determined a location for the return manifold, just aft and slightly above.  This location would allow fairly direct connection to the return port on the engine, and also provide an advantageous hose run away from the manifold.  Having determined what I needed to with the panel in place, I removed the whole fuel panel so I could more easily install the final components on the bench in the shop.


Planning ahead for the raw water strainer installation, I tried to keep as much of the aft end of the panel clear as possible, but even so there wasn't sufficient room.  But it'd be easy to install the strainer on some 1" standoffs, which would mean the filter could hang over the fuel lines as needed, so ordered what I'd need for this task.

To support the mizzen mast step, there was a simple wooden A-frame, which I'd removed from the boat during the initial stages of the project.  Now seemed like a good time to reinstall it.  I could re-use it as is; to install it, I applied epoxy adhesive to the top of the fiberglass flange that fit beneath the deck, and held it temporarily with bolts through the mizzen step holes.  At the bottoms of the legs, I installed additional adhesive to secure them to the pads that were still in place from the original installation, and left this to cure overnight, secured with some tape to hold things in position.  No, it's not straight, but blame the original builder for that:  it's in the same location as per original.  I'll just have to live with it.

Later, I'd install new tabbing to complete the installation.

This whole process took far longer than I'd expected, but I had enough time to sand the new hull patch over the old depth sounder location, and apply a first coat of fairing filler.

Total Time Today:  5.25 hours

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