[ Home Page ]    [ History ]    [ The Project ]

Project Log:  Sunday, February 19, 2012

To begin, I completed the ritual steps to prepare the newly-epoxied backing blocks--washing, sanding, etc., to remove any excess epoxy and clean out the through hull holes.

Afterwards, I inserted the three through hull bodies through the holes from outside, holding them in place with tape.

Inside the boat, I threaded on the valve assemblies, tightening each as much as I could before then twisting it to the proper alignment on the backing blocks.  Then, I drilled the three bolt holes to secure the flanges.  As I drilled each hole, I placed a bolt in the hole to hold the alignment.  I did this for each of the three fittings.


After removing the valves and through hulls, from outside the boat I countersunk the holes to allow the bolts to lie flush, or just below the surface.  I thoroughly cleaned inside and out as needed.

I applied a large quantity of 4200 polyurethane sealant to the through hull flange and threads, then inserted it in the hole, adding some tape to help hold it.  Because the three fittings were all in the same area, I could combine the steps and do all three at once.


Inside the boat, with the three through hulls gooped up and held in place, I added additional sealant around the through hull body, the bolt holes, and around the rough perimeter of where the valve flange would lie.  Then, I threaded on the valve/flange assemblies to the point where I could align the bolt holes and, from inside, insert temporary bolts to hold the alignment for the next step.


Back outside, I tightened the through hull a bit more, but before snugging it completely I installed the permanent bolts from outside, heavily coating the bolts and heads with more 4200.  As I inserted the bolts I pushed out the temporary bolts inside the boat.

The sealant held the bolts in place on their own, so with all three sealed and inserted I tightened the through hull fitting the rest of the way with a special tool.


Inside once more, I installed nuts and washers on the bolts, and tightened them securely.  Because the bolts were overlong, it was easy to hold the bolt with locking pliers to prevent spinning.  Afterwards, I cleaned up the excess sealant.



Outside, I cleaned up the excess sealant around the fittings and bolts.


Later, I cut off the excess bolt length inside, and installed pipe-hose adapters:  90° for the two scuppers, and a straight fitting for the engine intake.


In a separate operation, I installed the depth transducer.  After heavily covering the flange and body of the through hull with sealant and pressing it into place (with tape to help hold it), from inside I secured the fitting with additional sealant and the supplied bronze nut.  The heavy weight of the large transducer meant that it continually wanted to pull itself down as I tightened it, leading to several false moments of completion; I'd think the nut was tight, only to find that the transducer had slipped down, so I tightened more.  Eventually, I tightened it all the way, after which I cleaned up the excess sealant.


While I was in the area, I cut patches for the old depth location just aft, plus the little drain hole I'd made early in the project (both of which I'd earlier filled and patched from inside), and fiberglassed them in place.

I made a few advance preparations for some of the work I intended to do next:  aspects of the fuel system.  I'd intended to do this a few weeks earlier, but had been stymied at the time by requiring screws that I didn't have on hand.  With the requisite materials now in stock, I hoped I'd have what I needed to install the fuel system manifolds and continue the layout of the starboard engine room panel.

At the same time, I staged for some additional work on the heating system, specifically its fuel supply.  The assembly of inline fuel filter, shutoff valve (downstream of the filter; there was also a shutoff at the fuel tank), and electric fuel pump required about 12" of length, to be supported directly aft of the heater itself, and to this end I cut a 1/4" fiberglass panel that I could hang from the nearby cross beam support, to which I'd secure the elements of the fuel system.  I painted the panel once I'd cut it, leaving it to cure overnight.


Total Time Today:  5.75 hours

< Previous | Next >

The Motorsailer Project
Site design and content ©2010-2015 by Timothy C. Lackey.  All rights reserved.

Please notify me of broken or missing links or other site issues.
You can always find every day's project log links on The Project page.

Questions and comments | Home Page
V1.0 went live on 8/26/10