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Project Log:  Sunday, October 2, 2011

After lightly sanding the new tabbing in the galley, I worked on some additional layout.  Reinstalling, temporarily, the galley's front panel, I marked level lines to represent the tops of the floors of each recess (range and refrigerator) by holding a level across the base of the cutout.   On the range cutout, I also struck a plumb line off the back edge to represent the back panel; the refrigerator opening did not have a back panel, as the fridge would take up the space right to the hull.


I milled hardwood cleats to fit each space as needed, then installed the horizontal cleats, along with a cleat across the inboard edge of the front panel.  I used a scrap of plywood to lower my layout lines accordingly, so that the cleats ended up a plywood thickness lower than the layout line.


Next, I cut the base panels for each opening.   I used 1/2" cherry plywood in the stove cutout, as I thought there might be a bit of the surface visible through the stove's base once installed.


I decided to try the fit of the Engel refrigerator in its designated space before I went any further.  I knew the length tolerance was tight, but I'd suddenly had the terrible thought that the power plugs for the unit protruded some distance from the back side, and that these might interfere with the hull.

This proved to be an accurate concern.  With both the AC and DC power cords plugged in, I slid the refer into the space.  The protruding cords, particularly the longer DC plug (on the right in the photo below), contacted the curve of the hull, and prevented the fridge from sliding back quite far enough, so the handle and lid latch protruded slightly beyond the inside edge of the cabinet's front (as represented by the wood cleat in the photo), roughly 1/4".  Never mind that I'd never be able to operate the latch or conveniently use the handle.


Otherwise, the unit fit nicely, with ample room around (though I still planned various ventilation schemes, including louvered vents, in-cabinet vents, ventilated door, and fans as needed). 

I'd intentionally left clearance above the top of the unit, a bit more than an inch overall. 

This additional room meant that I could raise the platform, which would give more horizontal clearance since the hull curved outboard as it went up, so I cut a second layer of 12mm plywood to lay on top of the original floor, and this small increase allowed the DC plug enough extra room so that the whole fridge remained within the bounds of the cabinet, and still left nearly 3/4" clearance above the top of the unit.  However, it still looked like I'd have to remove the lid latch, and possibly modify the handle for easier operation within the specifications of the cabinet.  But that could come later.

Before I could permanently install any of these shelves and enclosures, I had more work to do on other aspects of the galley space.  Throughout the process, as things came together, I'd been mindful of the requirement to run various hoses, cables, and wires to and through the space:  propane line; water hoses; electrical wiring for the galley itself; and "through-wiring" for electrical things located in the forward half of the boat.  I didn't know the details of these installations, but had to provide a convenient and safe means of routing them in any event.

As always, possible route locations were inevitably complicated by the details of the boat's construction, my own new constructions, and other factors.  For example, I could have chosen to route water hoses to the galley sink through the bilge, but I didn't like running anything through the bilge that didn't absolutely have to be there, so I chose to avoid this possibility.  Also, the design and location of the new tankage bulkheads in the engine room prohibited certain possible routes near the bottom of the galley cabinet.

After giving the ideas various amounts of thought as I worked in the area, I decided upon a plan.  The narrow space between the refrigerator and stove, which would otherwise be used only for ventilation, looked like a great place to run hoses through, and I'd  have reasonable access through the access hatch I'd built into the refrigerator space.  The construction of the toekick also had a sort of built-in channel that I thought I could utilize. 

The difficulty was getting wires and hoses to this area in the first place.  I didn't want to clog up the air space outboard of the refrigerator with conduit, as I felt the fridge would need as much circulation as I could give it, so while I'd considered running conduit across the top outboard section of this cabinet, I ultimately decided against it.  Instead, I thought I'd run wires, hoses, etc. above the countertop in this area (hidden behind a vertical panel that I'd be installing later), then down into the 6" space between the bulkheads, where I could more easily route things forward beneath and above the range enclosure.

To that end, I installed two 2" conduit pipes through the range space, opening into that narrow 6" space on one side, and into the large open galley cabinet forward of the range.  Each 2" pipe was large enough to hold four or more water hoses, or any number of wires.  I figured I'd probably run the water supply hoses through the lower section, and wiring (and windlass cabling) through the upper one, but in any event the two pipes would give me options down the road.

In each case, I drilled holes of the appropriate size, then installed the conduit with epoxy adhesive to hold it in position.  I left extra pipe on the forward end of the upper conduit, in case I wanted to extend it later with fittings and additional pipe.  The conduit would protect its contents, and also give an easy means of running things later.


Total Time Today:  5.75 hours

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