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Project Log:  Saturday, October 29, 2011

There were a number of odds and ends in the galley that I wanted to take care of.  To begin, I installed flush ring pulls in the scraping block and refrigerator locker covers; I chose these pulls specifically because they installed in a 2" diameter round hole, which was easy to mill.  I didn't feel like chiseling out rectangular openings, particularly through the Formica countertop.  Although these pulls were cheesy chrome-plated zinc, which I normally avoided, they'd do the job adequately, and would be easy to replace if they started to fall apart.


In addition to the central single-lever faucet at the galley sink, which would be served by a pressured system, I prepared for the installation of a pair of simple telescoping manual faucets--one for fresh, one for salt--which would be serviced by the foot pumps in the cabinet below.  After determining where the faucets should go, I bored 7/8" holes through the countertop and tested the fit.  Afterwards, I removed the faucets till a later time.

There was no reason to postpone installing the galley sink; I could reach all areas of the cabinet beneath with it in place, and thought I had completed the major installations there anyway.  I masked around the sink opening, then placed the sink in place and cut out the tape beneath the flange.

I assembled the drain fitting along with a special adapter to conjoin the standard household-type sink drain threads (1-1/4", I think) with a barbed plastic hose fitting for 3/4" hose; this obviated the need to use any sort of household tailpiece and unreliable plastic washers, which combination never suit these installations well.

After installing the drain assembly in the sink, I secured the sink in place with sealant, weighting it down with several toolboxes to hold it while the sealant cured.  I used a black polysulfide that I had on hand, and because it matched the countertop.  Once the sealant cured sufficiently, I'd remove the excess and masking tape.


The plate storage rack required additional work to complete.  To begin, I sanded the back sides of the solid front trim to remove tool marks and otherwise prepare the surfaces.   I left sanding and shaping for the front, exposed side of the trim till later so that I could properly contour all the pieces together as need be.

This meant the next step was to permanently install the trim, which I did with glue and screws as needed, covering the screw holes with cherry bungs.

Once the glue had cured sufficiently, I milled a 1/2" roundover profile on the top edge of the trim, and sanded everything smooth, creating additional rounded profiles with the sander in places the router couldn't reach.  I rounded the vertical edges of the large plate overhang as well.

I milled thin, narrow strips of solid cherry to cover the top edge of the plywood compartment dividers, which I'd intentionally left just a bit shorter (about 1/8") than the solid trim for this reason.  I glued these in place, holding them with weights till the glue cured.

Meanwhile, I worked on some trim and a means of securing the removable panel covering the wire chase area in the galley.  The existing contours of the after bulkhead had meant that I needed to cut the piece a bit short to ensure ease of removal.  I decided the easiest way to cover the gap, as well as make the panel easy to remove, was to create trim pieces that would also hold the panel in place.  To this end, I milled some basic 1/2" softly rounded trim, which I secured tightly against the panel with knurled fasteners into the adjacent bulkheads.  This held the panel in place, and also secured the trim.  Removal would be a matter of unwinding the two screws, which I could do by hand. 

While I had the panel out, I located two propane system placards and the propane control board and drilled screw holes (for the placards) and a wiring access hole (for the control panel), leaving room for the required MARPOL trash disposal placard in the remaining part of the panel, a fine example of which I ordered.  I'd install all these components once I'd varnished the panel.


Once the glue securing the edge banding on the plate rack had cured, I finished up the sanding, then solvent-washed the piece and applied a sealer coat of varnish, along with the wire chase panel.


To round out the day, I began the engine room sound insulation.  I thought this would be a job best divided into several parts, one piece at a time rather than attempting to get it all done in one sitting, and I was right.

To begin, I created a paper pattern of the bulkhead I planned to insulate, in this case the port engine room bulkhead.  With kraft paper, I created an offset pattern in my usual way; the studs I'd installed on the bulkheads earlier worked in my favor, as they helped hold the pattern paper.

With the pattern made, I transferred it to a piece of the sound insulation.  This insulation was heavy and unwieldy, at two inches thick with a heavy (3/16" thick) layer of vinyl between the foam.  I found the best way to cut it was with a jigsaw, surprisingly enough; the vinyl was otherwise challenging, though a sharp serrated knife also worked when necessary.

Once I'd cut out the shape, and drilled holes for the studs, I test-fit it and made minor modifications before wrapping all the edges in the 4" wide tape supplied for the task, which matched the white Mylar top surface of the insulation. 

Next, I installed the sheet.  Again, the studs made this pretty easy and held the insulation in place.  I did not use any adhesive, but installed a number of long screws with large washers to help hold the insulation between the studs as needed.  

On each stud, I installed a stainless steel standoff, threading them tightly onto the studs; the standoffs featured a 1/2" long threaded stud at the end, which I'd use to secure plywood panels over the insulation to support various engine room components.  The body of the standoff would prevent the plywood from pressing into the insulation while allowing me to tightly secure the panel.


With my learning curve on the first sheet, the total installation, from pattern to the end, required about two hours. I hoped the remaining pieces would go a bit more quickly.

Total Time Today:  6.25 hours

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