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						| Project Log:  Sunday, November 18, 2012 
 With a new outlook on the overhead, I began the new day 
						by ripping 1-1/2" plywood strips out of the original 
						template and some additional plywood.  I'd use 
						these strips to make a skeletal template of the 
						overhead, a method I normally didn't employ since it's 
						more labor intensive and I usually didn't find it 
						necessary.  But in this case, it seemed this sort 
						of template construction made the most sense for this 
						challenging area.
 
 Armed with a pile of strips, a saw, and a glue gun, I 
						built a template of the starboard half of the forward 
						cabin overhead.  I temporarily attached various 
						strips to the overhead supports with screws as needed, 
						beginning with a strip down the centerline, then one 
						down each of the transverse overhead supports before 
						gluing in shorter pieces to follow the curve of the 
						outboard edge, along with additional sections to hold 
						the whole thing together as needed. I aligned one edge 
						of the template strips with an edge of the support 
						strips for later reference, as I could use these to mark 
						out screw locations to streamline installation of the 
						actual overhead.
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						| I carefully removed the template from the boat.  
						I'd made this template in one piece, but once I removed 
						it from the boat--with difficulty--I decided I'd have to 
						do the overhead in two sections per side:  I knew 
						I'd never be able to reasonably get the heavier plywood 
						overhead into place in a single piece.  Much as I 
						wanted to build this part of the overhead from only two 
						pieces, it simply wasn't going to happen without much 
						frustration, difficulty, and the likelihood of damage to 
						surrounding surfaces.
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						| To ensure that the final fit wasn't too tight, I held 
						the template slightly off the straight centerline cut, 
						using a scrap of the 3/16" thick plywood, which would 
						leave a gap between the two halves and allow easier 
						removal and installation; there'd be trim strips to 
						cover this seam, and others.  I traced the template 
						onto a sheet of 9mm marine plywood, including the 
						support strip locations, and cut it out, then cut the 
						section into two pieces--a larger section for the wide 
						forward section, then a smaller piece for the sidedeck 
						extension.  For now, I left excess material where 
						the sheets would hang out past the cabin trunk so I 
						could mark those cuts in place.  I marked and 
						drilled fastener holes where I planned to install 
						screws.
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						| I found it was much easier to maneuver the smaller 
						sections into place, and had no trouble temporarily 
						installing the overhead with a few screws through my 
						pre-drilled holes.  I was pleased with the fit, and 
						this vindicated the extra time it had taken me to make 
						the hot-glued template.  I traced the outline of 
						the cabin trunk on the overhanging part of the sheets, 
						and removed them for trimming.
 
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						| I repeated the process for the port side, after 
						determining that the overhead was far from symmetrical:  
						I attempted to fit the starboard section over the port 
						side (after inverting it) and found it was nowhere near 
						the same.  This time, I built the template in two 
						sections, corresponding with the planned seam between 
						the sidedeck and foredeck areas.
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						| I cut out the plywood overhead sections according to the 
						templates, and dry-fit them to check the fit and mark 
						the cabin trunk boundaries before removing the sections 
						and trimming off the excess material.
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						| Then, to ensure the fit of all pieces, I reinstalled the 
						four sections.  The centerline gap ended up a bit 
						wider than I'd originally envisioned, and I'd reduce the 
						amount of the gap in future overhead sections, but in 
						any case that posed no problem since the planned trim 
						would cover the gap regardless.  Cabin trunk trim 
						pieces would cover the plywood edge and the air space 
						between the overhead and the underside of the deck.
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						| In way of the main bow mooring bit, located on the 
						centerline near the chainlocker bulkhead, I cut out a 
						10" square section of the overhead, which would allow 
						for a hefty backing plate and bolts for the bitt, since 
						the clearance between the overhead and the fiberglass 
						deck was not large enough to hide this installation.  
						Later, I'd cut and install the backing plate to fit.
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						| Before final installation, I'd remove and paint the new 
						panels, which I'd do as time allowed in the near future.
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						| Total Time Today:  4.5 hours
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