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Project Log:  Saturday, March 22, 2014

I lightly sanded the primer in the head compartment, which had the desired effect of shearing off the now-brittle fibers from the overhead.  After cleanup, I applied the first of several coats of semi-gloss white enamel.


The obvious answer to the shape for the top of the tabernacle was a clean semicircle with a 3.25" radius.  This is what a fresh approach, after stepping away from something late in the day when the brain is tired, can do for oneself.  My earlier layouts had all trying to be working off the 2" diameter doubler plates that I planned around the hinge pin location, located near the top of the tabernacle, but this arc wasn't working with the overall shape.  Only with a fresh start did I truly realize that the top arc need not parallel the small-diameter doubler.

After cutting the new shapes, which I thought looked good, I installed 2" plywood circles at the two bolt locations; my real-world tabernacle inspiration had welded doublers here for additional strength.  The bolts--one at the top, which would be the hinge, and another near the bottom to pin the mast in place--would be 5/8" diameter.



Outside, I tested the fit of the template on the base of the mast.



Back on board, I reinstalled the main chainplates with new fasteners, through reusing the original U-bolts since they were in good condition.



The chainlocker needed a little floor and a drain to isolate it from the rest of the boat, and prevent water and debris from the anchor chain from flowing into the bilges.  I made several measurements so I could determine the basic location of the waterline from inside the boat:  the easiest way to do this for me was, from outside, to measure down from one of the deadlights in the forward cabin to the waterline, using a very conservative position.  Then, inside, I could measure from the deadlight to the v-berth platform, and, at the forward end, extrapolate the rough position of the waterline inside the chainlocker. 

This was well below where the platform needed to go, so I proceeded with a cardboard template of the new platform.  I angled the platform down towards the bow for drainage.  Then I cut the actual piece from 12mm marine plywood.  I kept the original plywood "corners" in place within the locker, as these gave passage for hoses and/or wiring into the chainlocker from the space behind.


From inside, and working off the height of the finished height of the new platform, I drilled a pilothole through the starboard bow to determine the new drain's location from the outside, shown near the masking tape tab.  This position was good:  well above the waterline.  I'd redrill the hole with a larger bit later, and eventually cover it with a clamshell to channel water away from it, but I had what I needed for now.


After final preparations and cleanup within the locker, I epoxy-coated the plywood platform on all sides, and installed it with an epoxy fillet before covering the whole thing with fiberglass, which I extended up on all sides to tab the platform securely in place and make it watertight.

I managed to find in my scrap pile two pieces of plywood just large enough from which to make the covers for the two battery boxes, and trimmed them to the correct overall sizes.  I'd continue with further details and prep another time.


Total Time Today:  4.75 hours

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