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Project Log:  Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Bringing the anchor up during earlier mockups had highlighted an issue with anchor clearance at the stem--put an other way, there wasn't clearance, and the anchor tended to hit the hull on its way up or down.  The near-vertical angle of the stem towards the top, and the general configuration of the anchor rollers meant that this looked to be a continuing problem--one that was not necessarily unforeseen, but only actually putting the system to use highlighted the need for a forward-looking plan.

The best answer--but one that couldn't happen in the short time before launch--was to build an anchor roller extension, or platform, to move the anchor tackle forward away from the stem.  This would aid in launching and retrieval, and would ultimately be a good addition to the boat.

In the short term, to help protect the bow from the anchor during the first season, the owner and I decided to try some self-adhesive rubber on the stem in the most-affected area.  This would at least provide some protection during normal use, and in the interim while a more permanent and effective solution was prepared.  We chose the rubber since it seemed it'd be effective, and was do-able with the technology, skill, and time constraints involved.  A metal protector of similar nature would have worked too, but getting this contracted in time seemed unlikely, and the owner preferred the long-term plan of a platform extension anyway.

With a sheet of 1/8" thick self-adhesive material on hand, I used pattern material to get the general layout and make some measurements for the shape of the protective pad.  After cutting out a template to the correct shape, and checking the fit, I cut out the rubber and, after thoroughly cleaning the bonding area on the hull, applied the new material.  It actually looked quite good--and from a distance was virtually invisible.


Later, I performed the final steps required to fire up the new propane system and stove.  I soaped up the various pipe connections in the propane locker as a final and easily visual test for leaks (none), then prepared to light the stove.  First, though, I had to install three batteries that powered the stove's electronic ignition system.  These were necessary only for convenience; the stove could be lit with a match or lighter without them.

With everything ready--including a fire extinguisher, just in case--I lit the stove.  The burners caught immediately despite the fact that the system had never been used.    All in all, it looked like this would be a very nice stove.

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With the top burners tested satisfactorily, I moved on to the oven burner.  This also featured an electronic ignition for convenience--no pilot light.

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Later in the afternoon, once it arrived in the usual daily delivery, I prepared to install the new anchor windlass breaker panel--a straightforward 150-amp main breaker required for the system.  Does one really require this many tools to install a simple switch?  Perhaps not, but it helps.

The new panel was nicely made, with a textured, machined aluminum panel and integral breaker switch.  After some consideration, I decided to install the new panel next door to the windlass switch, so I removed the steering wheel for access.  The panel required a single 2-1/8" hole to allow the breaker unit to pass through. 

With the hole  drilled, I finalized the wiring to the new switch:  power in with a 1/0 cable from the positive distribution buss in the console, and the load cable (already in place and awaiting its final connection) leading forward to the windlass solenoid. 

With the final connections made, and the new cables secured within the locker as needed, I installed the panel and completed the windlass installation.


With great anticipation, I turned on the power and tested the windlass from the helm switch, as well as the foot switches on the foredeck.  Success!

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Total Time Today:  3.25 Hours

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